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Daley Kreations

41 Hobart Crescent

Ottawa ON Canada

K2H 5S3


© 2017 by Daley Kreations


Feb 23, 2018

Silicone mold from grey v3




Do you have problems making silicone moulds from grey v3 resin?

My molds sometimes have surface irregularities caused by the silicone non solidifying properly.

My cleaning cycle is a 15 min IPA bath after print > 1 to 2 hours of UV curing > scrub the part with a soft brush and new IPA.

Anyone knows if this is the best cleaning or if the resin has any chemical that inhibits the silicone from catalysing?



Please help


I didn't find the right solution from the Internet



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Apr 4, 2018

Hi wpgkrfjh,


I'm afraid I don't know enough about grey resin to help. It does sound like either an inhibition problem with something in the mold, or perhaps a problem when you are mixing your silicone.

4 days ago

I'm afraid I don't know enough about grey resin to help. It does sound like either an inhibition problem with something in the mold, or perhaps a problem when you are mixing your silicone.

New Posts
  • There are two main "families" of silicone - tin-based (also known as "condensation cure") and platinum-based (or "addition cure") silicone. In each "family" you can find a wide variety of silicones, with many different grades of hardness, softness, curing and working times, elasticity etc. But in general, all tin-based silicones share a certain set of properties, and all platinum-based share certain properties. Tin-Based Silicones : are generally less expensive than platinum-based silicones are not prone to inhibition (ie have environmental factors prevent curing) are usually used for making molds (although they can be prone to shrinkage) are NOT suitable for use against the skin even in a cured state cured pieces have a short "library life" - meaning that after a few years the piece loses its elasticity and becomes brittle. Platinum-Based Silicones: cured pieces do not become brittle or break-down over time making them suitable for long-term art pieces and molds are prone to inhibition (ie a variety of factors can prevent the silicone from curing) skin-safe once cured (certain types can be applied and allowed to cure directly on the skin) show very little shrinkage when used to make molds once cured, platinum pieces have greater temperature and chemical durability than tin-based pieces
  • "RTV" stands for "Room Temperature Vulcanization" - which basically means that the silicone does not need to be subjected to heat to cure. Heat can still be used in the process (for instance it will speed up the curing of most platinum-based silicones) but is not required. At a normal room temperature and when mixed according to their directions RTV silicones will set without the addition of heat. This makes them the silicones most readily available to most artists, mold-makers, etc.
  • If my silicone has been "inhibited" what does that mean? "Inhibition" means that your silicone has and will not cure properly. Instead of curing to a solid state it remains whole or partially liquid, despite the components being mixed in the proper ratio - in other words a goopy mess. Inhibition  can be a problem with platinum-based silicones (tin silicones are much more forgiving) and can be caused by a variety of factors - everything from the type of gloves you are wearing (latex rubber gloves cause inhibition - vinyl and nitrile gloves do not), to the type of clay you may be trying to cast (a model sculpted from clays with sulfur in them cannot be molded in platinum-based silicone). Tin-silicones will even inhibit platinum-silicones! If you piece is only slightly inhibited (for instance it has turned solid but retains a tacky feel) it may complete curing over time, or if exposed to heat - but there are no guarantees. If your silicone won't cure at all unfortunately there is nothing to be done but to start over. If you are molding a piece, clean it off as thoroughly as possible - including wiping it down with solvents - and try again (but ONLY once you have tested to see if you can find the source of the inhibition). If you are adding a further layer of silicone to a previously cured piece, do the same - remove all the uncured silicone, and wash the piece down thoroughly with a  solvent such as acetone before trying again. Inhibition is the reason it is important to do a TEST every time you begin a new silicone project, use a new solvent or otherwise change any aspect of your process.