Hello, Do you have problems making silicone moulds from grey v3 resin? My molds sometimes have surface irregularities caused by the silicone non solidifying properly. My cleaning cycle is a 15 min IPA bath after print > 1 to 2 hours of UV curing > scrub the part with a soft brush and new IPA. Anyone knows if this is the best cleaning or if the resin has any chemical that inhibits the silicone from catalysing? Thanks Please help I didn't find the right solution from the Internet References: https://forum.formlabs.com/t/silicone-mold-from-grey-v3/1623534734 Virtual Reality Device Video
Often erroneously called “Clear Worbla” TranspArt is rather unique amongst the thermoplastics – and not just because it is clear. You will definitely need a heat-gun and an adhesive such as Crazy Glue when working with TranspArt. But the easy ability to make jewels and other clear creations makes it another handy material in your arsenal. PROS : "Clear"...ish. You will notice slight streaks in the plastic. CONS : Has a higher activating temperature and only a very narrow temperature window where it will adhere to itself. It is also really easy to mar the clear surface with fingerprints or other tools. Not recommended for beginners.
Worbla Mesh looks like a beige Worbla except it has an internal mesh instead of sawdust particles. One side is semi-smooth like the “glue” side of regular Worbla while the other side has a texture similar to duct tape. Again, this can be eliminated in a variety of ways. PROS: Worbla Mesh’s internal mesh makes it stronger and more resistant to tearing than regular Worbla. Worbla Mesh is can be used to reinforce regular Worbla structures and to attach fittings such as D-rings to Worbla pieces. Unlike WonderFlex, Worbla Mesh scraps can be collected and combined to be used again. Worbla Mesh will also stretch around curves without using darts, unlike Wonderflex. CONS: The mesh means that Worbla Mesh won’t stretch as much as Worbla so it is harder - although possible - to form nice curves or round shapes.